March 6, 2018

Each experience we have had as a group invites us to experience the blended elements of tradition, culture and the people of Palestine, in a way that helps me to better understand the circumstances of daily existence of Palestinian people. Our guide, Usama, has a wealth of knowledge about the region and history and is very open to questions to help us understand not just what we are surrounded by, but also the context.

Today we journeyed through Wadi Makhrour, a long deep valley, framed by high, terraced hillsides where farmers have grown crops for centuries. The hills are covered with olive trees, almond trees, and a variety of native flowering plants. We learned the significance of Pine trees grown in the area and saw scattered remnants of Roman settlements. There are multiple tombs and caves along the way. One tomb we observed was an example of the type of tomb in which Jesus would have been buried. A large “slot” was carved next to the small entrance, from which a disc-shaped stone would have been rolled to cover the entrance. We learned about the history of farm life in this area and some of the difficulties farmers have had in maintaining their livelihood.

At the end of the valley we reached Battir, a small village surrounded by encroaching new Israeli settlements. There are Roman baths and aqueducts at this end of the town where people still drink and swim. The water is still collected and distributed to water some of the nearby gardens and crops. Playful schoolchildren milled about the streets, curious and excited to greet foreign visitors. We congregated on a terrace facing the pools and valley for a wonderful meal prepared especially for our group. The meal consisted of a large platter of layered filo-type bread stuffed with spices and nuts and meats, topped by roasted chicken. This was accompanied by several smaller dishes of salad, olives, vegetables and plates of delicious date-stuffed pastries.

After some time savoring a little tea and coffee, we returned to the bus for the last part of our day’s excursion, a trip to the Cremisan Winery. The winery was established by monks in the 1880’s and has been producing wine ever since. They currently produce a series of award-winning wines that are distributed internationally. We viewed the production areas and were treated with a sample of their newest offering, a brandy that had been aged for 35 years. It provided a little warmth as a little afternoon chill set in the air.

Along the way Usama stopped our bus a number of times to point out changes in the area as settlements go up and family homesteads are removed. The stories punctuated the impact that current developments have had on an area so deeply tied to its own history.

~ Ryan Larkey