Prayer rugs, Ibrahim Mosque, Hebron

Fran here. Today was a full day. We spent the morning in Hebron, where we visited the Ibrahim Mosque and Tomb of the Patriarchs as well as the offices of Christian Peacemaker Teams. The walk to CPT required a journey through the souk- the central market, which is a narrow, winding alley full of vendors. CPT works to support existing peacemaking efforts, provides accompaniment to ensure protection for Palestinians, and documents human rights abuses.

Gabriel, a CPT volunteer and our host, explained that Hebron is a “microcosm of the occupation,” and he is exactly right. There is a military post or check point everywhere you look, and various settlements dot the cityscape. In fact, one settlement runs alongside the souk, and there is chain link fence to catch the trash that is thrown by settlers into the market.

Next to CPT’s office is a military outpost- soldiers standing guard with machine guns, generally looking quite bored. I honestly cannot get beyond the absurdity of the situation: this foreign army in a land that international law states does not belong to them, ensuring the continued confiscation and destruction of property of the rightful owners and residents of this place. And impunity reigns.

Military checkpoint, Hebron

This afternoon we visited Tent of Nations, which is an educational and environmental farm that operates on a Palestinian family farm that has been in operation since 1916. It is encircled by five large settlements that continue to grow, and the Nasser family is fighting an ongoing battle to maintain their land. In May of this year, the Israeli army at the behest of a group of settlers uprooted hundreds of apple, apricot, olive and fig trees there, but Daoud, the director and grandson of the original owner, and his family and team will replant. Israeli policy prohibits them from utilizing electricity, plumbing, or constructing, so they have made meeting rooms in caves, used solar power, and have compost toilets. This operation is incredible, and is a collaborative effort between Palestinians, Israelis, and internationals.

Shane Claiborne writes that “Christianity is at its best when it is peculiar, marginalized, and suffering,” and these saints are proof of that. This place is a difficult one, but the suffering of these people has laid the ground for incredible faith. The road towards a just peace is long and arduous, requiring amazing endurance, patience, and faith that I envy.