Wednesday, May 2 ~ Jeanne Hoek

Walking down Star Street, the street where Joseph and Mary traveled looking for a place to stay, is not what I imagined it would be. It was bustling with cars, people and shopkeepers wanting you to buy, buy, buy.

After hearing about the difficult life people in Bethlehem have under occupation; checkpoints, home raids by the IDF, not being able to travel, It was good to see how they make the best of life.

Our next stop was the Church of the Nativity, visiting both the Catholic section and the Orthodox section; both very beautiful in their own way. Could not help thinking about why the need for two separate churches when people from many different churches come to visit.

Rami Elhanan, Joan Deming, Usama Nicola, George Sa’adeh

We ended the evening meeting with Rami Elhanan and George Saadeh from the Parents’ Circle/Israeli-Palestinian Bereaved Families for Peace — a group of 600 from Jewish and Palestinian families that have all experienced a death of a loved one due to violence.

Rami, an Israeli Jew, noted that George, a Palestinian, is his friend and the closest person to him on the earth since they share the same pain, the loss of a child by violence. Rami’s daughter was killed by a Palestinian suicide bomber and George’s daughter was killed by IDF soldiers.

Out of these tragedies they both learned to forgive, and joined this group that not only supports one another but works to break the cycle of violence and hatred that is present.

They do this by telling their stories in many groups including schools. They stressed the importance of communication amongst people and wished they could live together.

The things that struck me were 1) Rami said that it was not until after the death of his child, he was 46, that he realized Palestinians were human beings exactly like him; 2) children In schools where they go to speak often times have not seen a Jew and a Palestinian together; 3) Many Palestinians and Jews call them traitors for working together; 4) Although George is occasionally able to get a permit to go to Israel, Rami must always sneak into Palestine where he would be arrested if caught (because it is against the law for Israeli citizens to enter West Bank cities).

For more on the Parents’ Circle:  visit their website at http://theparentscircle.org/en/pcff-home-page-en/, and the American Friends of Parents’ Circle Facebook Page at: https://www.facebook.com/ParentsCircleFamiliesForum/.

After meeting with them and other groups this week it seems to me that the wall must come down for reconciliation to take place. Hatred will only go away when people can know each other and have empathy for each other. How is this possible now with the occupation?

Jesus created many races and in his village I know he wants love and acceptance, just as he loves us.

Wednesday, May 2 ~ Luke Hyder

“Glory to God in the highest heaven, and on earth peace…”

This beloved angelic message to the shepherds was the backdrop for the start of our day Wednesday, entered in and around Bethlehem.

Shepherds’ Field Church

Dome above the church letting light stream in.

We visited the “Shepherd’s Field” site in nearby Beir Sahour, at the heart of which is a church commemorating that moment of heavenly proclamation of the birth of Jesus. This visit included singing “Angels We Have Heard on High” in the small, circular, domed church (designed to imitate the shape of a Bedouin shepherd’s tent), viewing Byzantine ruins, and hearing a thought-provoking devotion from Howard Stoess reflecting on the Babel story, God’s gift of diversity, and yet our call to look forward with hope for ways to be unified in our diversity, despite whatever “mountains” of hostility or division we’ve put in our way.

Herodion

The day continued in the spirit of both the Babel story and the angelic message, as we drove out to the site of the Herodium, the towering mound of a summer palace (complete with lower palace, gardens, pools, and the stones of a later Byzantine community), of the infamous King Herod (who slaughtered the innocent children of Bethlehem for fear of the birth of Jesus), all long since in ruins just like the Tower of Babel. The setting provided panoramic views of the Judean wilderness, the countryside of the prophet Amos, and Palestinian villages and Jewish settlements interlaced with one another, the separation wall weaving between them like a concrete and metal tapeworm. One wonders and hopes what else God may need to tear down in order to bring “peace on earth” for the peoples of this land.

Victor Makari with us at International Center of Bethlehem (Diyar Consortium)

Next we returned to Bethlehem, to Christmas Lutheran Church where we had worshipped on Sunday, and met with Victor Makari, an Egyptian Christian, naturalized American, and fellow Presbyterian, who has served churches and our denomination across the globe for nearly 50 years, and is currently sharing in the outreach ministry of this church, with special focus on studying issues of religion and state in the Middle East. Dr. Makari shared with us about the outreach programs of the International enter of Bethlehem, which among many wonderful efforts has sports programs for women, and arts programs for youth. After hearing from Dr. Makari about his life and about these initiatives, the Center provided a delicious and plentiful Palestinian lunch.

My reflections come to a close as we approach the next stage of our journey today, a walk through the old city of Bethlehem to Manger Square and the Church of the Nativity. Before we toured the Church (or really, three churches), we had about an hour to explore the Manger Square area. Two of my colleagues, Charlie and Alan, and I went looking for an Olive Wood Factory, one of the places that the ubiquitous carved olive wood souvenirs are crafted. We found what we were looking for and more! We met {should I include his name, Jack Giacaman?} the friendly and gregarious proprietor of the “Christmas House” souvenir shop and factory, who graciously showed us around his workshop and store. He then regaled us for most of the remaining hour with heartfelt stories of his life, his family, and the contemporary experiences of his people, Palestinian Christians. I was reminded once again how this is the true sacred treasure we are seeking on this pilgrimage, the living stones of God’s people, living in this Holy Land, longing for “peace on earth.”

***Extra treat or extra credit: Click here for video of our not-quite-angelic but heartfelt rendition from the Shepherd’s Field Church.

Monday, April 30 ~ Elie Saikaly

In the U.S., most people’s mental image of Bethlehem comes from the Christmas cards and carols we grew up with. We imagine a pastoral scene with animals and straw, Mary, Joseph, and baby Jesus with maybe some approaching wise men in the background. Perhaps you knew that there is now a concrete wall that has been put up surrounding Bethlehem.

Walking along the Wall

Today, we walked along the wall. The wall is twenty some feet tall and topped with barbed wire  angled toward the Palestinian side. The wall is part of a vast system of walls that separates Israel from Palestinian areas. Israel calls it a separation wall. The Palestinians call it the apartheid wall. Israel says it is for security. Palestinians say it is an excuse to annex Palestinian land and continue the occupation of its people.

We start  our walk on a hill just below the checkpoint and continue to walk downhill. Immediately, you are struck by the immensity of it. It it’s the kind of structure you expect to find surrounding a prison. On the Israeli facing side, which you would only see from the other side of the check point, the concrete has decorative moldings as if enclosing a gated community. On the Palestinian facing side, the gray concrete is unadorned.

Angels work on the Palestinian side

Yet most of the wall stretching for blocks is covered with graffiti art. Some of the art is now world famous. There are line drawings, elaborate coloured paintings, pictures, and posters. The messages grab your attention and summon your emotions–despair, hope, longing, defiance, love. There is a series of wall posters called “The Wall Museum.” The posters recount true stories written by Palestinian youth about suffering and oppression as well as resilience, inner strength and cultural identity. A painting, which has become iconic, depicts a dove wearing a flak jacket. There are political cartoons, some aimed specifically at the American president. They demand justice, freedom, equality.

Banksy Wall Art

You can’t come away from the wall unaffected. It raises questions and challenges your conscience.