Places of Hope in the Shadow of the Wall

By Margot LaPanse

Version 2We started our day with a visit to Wi’am, a conflict resolution center located adjacent to the Aida Refugee Camp. Wi’am is located near the part of the Wall where Pope Francis stopped to pray during his 2014 visit to Palestine. While at Wi’am we learned about their efforts to deal with some of the side effects of the occupation. The unemployment rate in the camps is between 30 and 40 percent. This results in a sense of despair which can sometimes manifest itself in domestic violence in a culturally patriarchal society. We were told that in Arab culture saving face is a huge priority. The staff at Wi’am explained to us that they help coach people to develop negotiation skills using pragmatic tools such as the 3 day truce. They also work as advocates for women’s inheritance, and provide a summer camp for refugee children.

Soccer is everywhere... all it takes is a ball

After our discussion at the Wi’am Center, Usama led us on a walking tour of the Aida  Camp. The camp is a bleak and desolate space, littered with trash and the remnants of many skirmishes with the Israeli military: tear gas canisters, rubber bullets, and marbles that the Palestinian children use in slingshots. There is no greenery, and little beauty to be seen. We did, however run across two young boys kicking a ball outside a preschool. There were Winnie-The-Pooh characters painted on the side of the building and the children were engrossed with their game, much like young childre nall over the world. I wondered what will become of these two little boys. Will they survive childhood and be able to live full lives? Will they be given a good education, and an opportunity to earn a decent living doing work that can contribute to their society? The world owes these children a chance at a more hopeful future.

Sunday Afternoon, October 18 – Bethlehem

Joan and Usama walking down Star Street

Joan and Usama walking down Star Street

By Mary Laird

After coffee at Christmas Lutheran Church, we made our way to Manger Square via steep, narrow, winding streets. We were accosted from a balcony by a cheerful girl who demanded to know the age of one of our youngest members, my daughter Rachel. “Twenty-two.” “How old are YOU?” she asked each of us. “54”, “68”, “56”… well you get the idea. She ultimately told us she was eleven.

Star Street, the path that tradition says Mary and Joseph walked into Bethlehem, had high-walled buildings on either side. Our guide Usama told us that this once-thriving business and tourist district no longer receives many tourists, and most are out of business.

A tasty lunch at Afteem in Bethlehem

A tasty lunch at Afteem in Bethlehem

We lunched at Afteem (“Since 1948… welcoming guests from Palestine and all over the world”), started by a Palestinian refugee. Falafel, hummus, lemonade with fresh mint WERE the BEST, as advertised.

In Church of the Nativity: did you know the barn we traditionally associate with Jesus’ birth was actually a cave? Me neither! Joan’s and/or Usama’s connections earned us direct entry into the cave rather than standing in line for a couple of hours. We touched the holy site of the birth, Joan read the Christmas story, and we sang “Away in a Manger” in THE CAVE under the church.

Ancient plumbing in the ruins of the Herodian... rebar is of later origin.

Ancient plumbing in the ruins of the Herodian… rebar is of later origin.

The Herodian seemed a bit of a megalomaniac’s self-trubute. Byzantine ruins, from the 6th or 7th century perhaps, were interesting for remnants of plumbing including ceramic pipes and an olive oil press, and for the fact they’ve not been explored or preserved — disappearing treasure. Here and at Shepherd’s Field were mean brambles, rocks, and a mustard plant, which Jane later noted being described clearly in the Bible.

In our group debrief, Joan suggested we discuss something that surprised, concerned, or interested us. We were surprised the partition wall was not higher and disturbed at its presence at all (Bill), pleased with the Church worship that was not mostly in our own language (Sophia and all), and interested that people from all over the world share something in coming to Bethlehem (expressed by Dan). We were brief film stars for Elias, a tour guide who is expecting a group from Colorado; some of us talked on video about safety concerns that are being aired prominently in US media, our own feelings of safety, and how happy we are to have come to Palestine and Israel. Great meal and conversation followed in the basement of our temporary home, The Holy Land Hotel.

The First Morning – Absorbing and Anticipating

By Sophia Martinelli

“First night in the Bethlehem hotel was a doozy. I think we were all in a daze not only from the 9 hour jet lag, but by the hit of the Israeli humidity.

Arriving at Christmas LutheranI was awakened by two unfamiliar sounds: the Call to Prayer around 5 a.m., and the continuous crowing from not one, but two competing roosters. The sounds of the busy street shortly followed the 6 a.m. Hour, and as I stared at the ceiling of my hotel room, something told me that I was no longer in the “States”. I sprung up to catch scenic pictures of the arising dawn, and in a good mood: prepared for breakfast and church service.

I could almost taste the food as I turned the corner of our 5th floor hotel room, and I, as the “foodie” I am: began to salivate and tried to pinpoint and guess what spices were used. Jeff Wright and UsamaBreakfast was a dynamic and delicious spread of various new foods, where pictures may only do the eyes mere justice. I truly loved it!

We arrived at the Christmas Lutheran Church in time to snap group and panoramic pictures before service and to truly “take it all in” for the first day. The service was very serene and interesting as the reverend taught in traditional Arabic, but kept us in tune with English translations from time-to-time. What I found most beautiful, as I also continued to realize throughout the day, were the universal methods of communication that transcend all cultures, statuses, and barriers; something as simple as a smile, a gutsy loud laugh, or the cries of babies during a church service.

A welcome (arabic) coffee hour from the Nassar family

A welcome (arabic) coffee hour from the Nassar family

We proceeded up a small corridor to a large annex where we were greeted with the smell of rich and strong Arabic coffee, something I’ve gotten used to seeing being offered at various times of the day.

With excitement in our mind, compassion in our hearts, and the will to learn in the threads of our being: we look forward to future days on our pilgrimage.”

Version 2

The group outside Christmas Lutheran Church, Bethlehem